Wednesday, July 29, 2009
Announcing The Gracious Hosts of This Year's 'Go Ahead Honey It's Gluten Free!'
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Naomi Devlin
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Saturday, July 25, 2009
A Well Seasoned Pan (Go Ahead Honey It's Gluten Free!)

A well seasoned cast iron pan is truly a thing of beauty. Like a treasured sourdough starter, each skillet requires tending to achieve the desirable patina of oils that seal the black surface to perfect smoothness. My Father's pans are the stuff of legend, jet black and luminous with decades of lovingly wiped and scorched grease - only ever briefly meeting water, lest the spell be broken. Every Sunday he sets a couple of them on the Aga and makes pancakes in place of the more traditional roast, wiping the pan between each pour with a paper towel neatly folded and clamped with a wooden clothes peg. He bends, pours, swirls, tosses, slides the pancake onto a growing stack with meditative calm, wiping each gleaming pan as he sets it back on the heat and begins again.
When Shirley of Gluten Free Easily picked 'Make Me a Happy Camper' as her theme for Go Ahead Honey, I thought instantly of my own lovingly tended cast iron pans. I found them whilst rootling idly through a rural market, when Fin was no more than a spring in my step or a twinkle playing under the fringe of his father's eyes. Tossed carelessly into a dirty cardboard box, cobweb strewn and smudged with rust, they looked like nothing. But we beheld in them the future heirlooms of our yet to be built kitchen. And so they were snapped up for nothing and hurried home to be scoured, salted, scorched and oiled, oiled, oiled, till they shone like obsidian.
We had been hoping to nestle the pans into the embers of a crackling campfire and yet, every time we planned to camp, or even barbeque, it rained. After the early sunbath of June, July was unremittingly damp and grey. Fin and I sat with our chins in our hands and pouted our lips a bit and then got on with rainy day stuff - that didn't need a campfire to be fun.

Eventually I realised that I was going to miss the deadline if I held off any longer and so I made my dishes on the stove. But they can be made on the campfire if you're blessed with lovely weather. I used an 8" skillet for a courgette tortilla and a 6" skillet for a hazelnut and apple puddingcake. When the weather turns fine, I'll do it all again for real.
Courgette (zucchini) Tortilla serves 3-4

1 large brown skinned onion chopped roughly
2 large or 4 small courgettes peeled and diced
6 large free range eggs
pinch sea salt
vegetable oil
Heat a good slurp of vegetable oil in an 8" cast iron skillet (or similar) and add the onion, frying gently until translucent.
Add courgette and stir to coat, fry gently until this is just cooked through.
Place the hot vegetables in a large mixing bowl and set aside for a minute. Set the pan back on the heat - add a little oil if it looks dry.
Beat the eggs with a pinch of salt and stir into the hot vegetables, beating quickly, and pour them straight back into the pan, shaking a little.
Cook gently for about 8-10 minutes without disturbing until the sides have set but the top is still runny. Then the tricky bit!
With a butter knife ease the edges of the tortilla away from the pan a little, all the way around. Place a plate on top of the pan that covers it entirely and a little extra - the flatter the better. Using a cloth to protect your hands, grasp the plate and pan with both hands and invert the tortilla onto the plate. Set it down and give the pan a tap to loosen.
Set the empty pan back on the heat, and slide the tortilla back into the pan with one swift (and hopefully successful) movement. Push the edges underneath to seal (with a butter knife) and cook for another 3-4 minutes.
Then invert again onto a fresh (or washed) plate and leave to cool for about 10 minutes - or eat cold.

You can omit the inverting bit and finish the tortilla under a grill, but this is the authentic Spanish method and it makes a lovely clean edge.
Hazelnut & Apple Puddingcake
serves 4-6

I used this recipe and just added another egg, left out the banana and lay a couple of peeled apples in some melted butter at the bottom of the pan to avoid the burnt crust that can occur. Because I'm not eating bicarb at the moment, we separated the eggs and beat the whites, folding them in at the end - but this isn't really practical when you're camping! It's quite magical to have a cakey pudding when you're under canvas.

If you would like to take part this month, send your entry to Shirley at: glutenfreeeasily@gmail.com by the 28th July and she will post the round up here at the end of the month.
I will post the list of hosts for the coming year as soon as I can.
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Naomi Devlin
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4:18 PM
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Tuesday, July 21, 2009
'O' Type Diet Meets SCD - an Update
Jennifer Maloney reminded me that it was time I gave you an update on my 'O' blood type meets SCD experiment, and so I shall gentle reader.
Let me start by saying that finding the right way to eat for yourself is always a process of fine tuning. Despite my extensive knowledge of diet and nutrition, unless I keep an ear peeled for the chatter and hum of my belly and blood conversing - I can still get out of balance and eat the wrong thing.
To change my SCD diet to an 'O' blood type compliant one I did the following:
1 - Gave up all cow's milk products and minimised my consumption of dairy generally. I changed to goat butter and goat or sheep yogurt, consuming the smallest quantity of cheese a couple of times a week.
I find dairy the hardest element to balance because I do eat a little yogurt every morning (about 2-3tbs) and sometimes want some butter in my celeriac purée or on my peas. Then I might crave a little bit of goat cheese and that could be a too much dairy in a day. It's a balancing act. My advice with dairy for 'O' types is to have a lot less than you want and then try to reduce it again and you should be ok.
2 - Gave up all coconut products.
This was initially very tough as I had been using coconut oil to cook with, eating shredded coconut on my breakfast, nibbling the odd lump of creamed coconut and drinking the milk in tea or using it in Thai soups. However, I knew I wasn't digesting it on some level and when I gave it up it felt right.
3 - Stopped using black pepper and vanilla.
Whilst this might seem oddly minor, I often used to find that black pepper made me a little belchy, but I happily ground it over pretty much everything I ate - because it's good for you right? In the foods that didn't have pepper, I merrily sprinkled vanilla and so these two seemingly insignificant elements had a huge presence in my diet. I switched to mild chilli flakes, pul biber, urfa biber, fresh chillies and chipotle chilli powder when I wanted a pepper kick to my food and belched less almost instantly!
4 - Stopped eating cabbage, aubergines, strawberries, blackberries, avocado, melon, oranges, capers, cauliflower, mushrooms and rhubarb.
Strangely, when I look at the list above, although I love the taste of all of those foods, I have a feeling of unease when I think about eating them. I never got on well with mushrooms, always felt a little bilious after aubergines and the last time I ate cauliflower and rhubarb (not together!) I was painfully bloated (and worse) for days.
As hedges swell with ripening blackberries and the grocer's table groans with fat, sweet, local strawberries, I do feel a twinge of longing for the taste of those fruits. But I console myself with a paper bag full of garnet cherries and a punnet of Scottish raspberries instead and my body thanks me for exercising my will power.
5 - Stopped eating pork.
Again, although my heart beats a little faster for a slice of smokey chorizo and a rasher of crisp salty bacon, pork does not love me back. Before embarking on 'O' type, I had instinctively reduced my consumption of pork products to ham, bacon and sugar free cured meat - as a large amount of pork would leave me feeling slightly nauseas. When I switched ham for cold roast beef or pressed ox tongue and a few salty roast nuts in place of bacon, I definitely felt better.
6 - Cut out brazils, pistachios, peanuts and cashews.
SCD can be a nut heavy diet and yet not all nuts are created equal. Many people struggle to digest cashews as they are very mildly poisonous. Although I love pistachios, they never liked me much and every effort to eat peanut butter was met with a resounding defeat. In their place I ate almonds, walnuts, hazels and pecans. It makes sense to me that nuts (bar pecans) which grow in this country, or at the farthest in Europe, should suit my constitution. I wonder whether 'O' types on other continents would find local nuts a more suitable choice too?
I try not to eat too many nuts, rarely eat nut bread and aim to snack on raw fruit and vegetables in their place. Nuts are not the best source of protein for 'O' types and my experience bears that out, plus they are very dehydrating and must be consumed with lots of water, or soaked first.
Eggs were another food that can be over-consumed on SCD and I stopped eating them for breakfast every day, eating the occasional omelette for lunch instead. I don't eat pulses at all because they just don't agree with me - I may try aduki beans at a later date as they are supposed to be beneficial, but I'm not holding my breath!
Finally, I took up more vigorous exercise to complement my hunter gatherer and found that my mood lifted, muscles responded and energy improved. It turns out that my body and soul are made for quick bursts of intensity and I felt filled with life after each punishing circuit class.
My conclusion is that SCD plus 'O' type is the best thing for me. I don't agree wholesale with the ideas of either system because diet has to be based on each individual and their unique quirks. With each week that passes I continue to refine what I eat and resist the temptation to over complicate and over process.
What I find myself coming back to time and again is Michael Pollen's timeless statement, 'Eat food, not too much, mostly plants'. We all know that we should aim for food that has a real connection to the earth by basing the bulk of our diet on vegetables. Fruit, nuts, meat, fish, eggs, dairy and preserved foods should contribute a smaller part than they do for the most part, in a world where everything is just a few short steps to the fridge. The hum and chatter of our bellies and blood serves as a readily available barometer that can teach us all we need to know, if we just learn to listen.
Posted by
Naomi Devlin
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12:21 PM
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Thursday, July 16, 2009
Cucumber and Poppy Seed Salad (SCD)
I was flicking idly through my copy of Ottolenghi for inspiration the other day and my eyes lighted on a cucumber salad with chili and poppy seeds. I made a mental tour of the ingredients with my tongue, cucumber (cool and refreshing), poppy seeds (nutty and intriguingly musty), chilli (fiery), coriander (fragrant) and then added some of my own: onion (pungent) and lime juice (sour).
My mouth began to water instantly as it recognised a perfect balancing act of tastes, whilst my eyes gratefully took in the image of green slices with just enough pillar box red chili to make the whole thing sing.
In less than five minutes the bowl of salad was on the table, waiting for a piece of baked turbot to nestle gently up to it, all white fat flakes. A big handful of dark leaves completed the trilogy and we sank our teeth in without further ado.
You can customise this salad with different herbs, basil, mint, lemon balm or maybe a little tarragon and the onions could be spring onions, chives, wild garlic leaves or even plain old brown skinned onion. The main elements of the salad should stay the same however, to get that zingy symphony of flavour and crunch.
This salad is SCD legal, but if you are in the first three months of the diet, or still experiencing symptoms then peel the cucumber, go easy on the onion and chilli and leave out the poppy seeds - just enjoy the flavours of the herbs and lime juice.
Cucumber & Poppy Seed Salad
(my way) 4 portions as a side

1 large cucumber
2 mild red chillies
Large handful of washed & roughly chopped coriander leaves
Half a small red onion or half a bunch of spring onions (scallions)
2 tablespoons poppy seeds
Pinch sea salt (or dash of fish sauce/nam pla for non SCD)
Juice of 1/2 to 1 whole lime
Slurp of vegetable oil (I use organic rapeseed)
Slice the cucumber into long discs - diagonally across the width of the cucumber - about 5mm or 1/4 inch thick. Slice each of these discs into sticks and toss into a bowl.
Mince the onion finely - or slice the spring onions into little coins - and add to the bowl.
Taste the chillies (stalk end will be the hottest) and decide how fiery you want to go. Take out the seeds and chop them into fine dice or very thin strips and add to the bowl.
Add everything else except the lime juice and toss gently.
Add half the lime juice and taste, then add more if you think it needs it. Limes can very sweet or sour, you never know! You may even want more than one lime to get that zing.
Toss again and serve.
Posted by
Naomi Devlin
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3:05 PM
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Monday, July 13, 2009
Small Cakes for a Big Boy
Yesterday we had a little party for Fin's eighth birthday. The weather was undecided so we took the party to the pool where it was absolutely wet. Six boys ambled behind us like something from Stand By Me, kicking stones and chatting with their hands. Occasionally a little exuberance would escape with an uncontrollable spring lamb gambol. Nick and I held hands and pretended to be walking alone, just ahead, but keeping an eye and ear peeled for the sound of twelve sandals. On one sneaky backward glance Fin caught my eye and grinned hugely, throwing a double thumbs up.
I thought about how often I had walked with Fin's small hand in my own and wondered at the swift passage of time.
Mini Banoffee Cupcakes, made from this recipe.
At the pool we let the boys go in by themselves, all eight or over now, they didn't need chaperones. It was Fin's first time in the pool without an adult and he emerged from the locker room with a swagger in his step. The boys leapt straight in after him and they swam to the deep end to practice diving - leaving the 'fun' session at the other end where girls and their mums splashed about childishly.
It was like witnessing Fin downing his first pint. A seminal moment, the first of many in his forays into adulthood.

Later, when the swim stuff was all hung out to dry and candles extinguished, we sat together on the sofa whilst balloons bobbed around the room in the evening breeze.
Then he climbed onto my lap and sucked his thumb a bit before bed. Back in the safety of being a little boy again.
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Naomi Devlin
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7:09 PM
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Saturday, July 4, 2009
Broad Bean Salad
Last weekend some dear friends came to supper. Iris arrived at the door first - in her hot fingers a gorgeous wild flower posy all bound with pink wool. Natalie and Paul struggled in behind her, laden down with a basket full of home grown produce, a bag of herb salad, huge bunch of beetroot greens that took over the fridge and an armful of new broad beans in their pods. All too soon we were gobbling strawberries for dessert and waving goodbye, as they strolled home with Iris tucked under a felt blanket.
The next day I planned to do justice to those lovely beans and find out whether my tummy was ready for them or not. It's been well over a year since I've eaten broad beans as they are too starchy for SCD. However, I figured that these peachy specimens were so new that they were more like peas and definitely worth the risk.
As I worked my way through the bag of pods I began to doubt that the pale beans which popped out, would feed my family unaided. When I had steamed and slipped them out of their skins, my suspicions were confirmed. The compost was going to do well out of this as the mound of pods far exceeded the small quantity of beans that peeped out expectantly from the large bowl I had set them in.
Liberated from their pods and skins, those tiny emerald green beans shone with life. Beans this new are like the fleeting appearance of elderflower or the first rhubarb - like the short asparagus season which is over and gone before you have had a chance to cram in enough of the stuff, and you wish you had ignored that voice telling you it was not okay to eat it at every meal - dripping in hot butter.
I ran to the garden to gather some mint and peered into the fridge for inspiration. Hmmm...
Not much later, I was stirring up a minty, creamy salad and scattering chives happily over it. A whole bowlful of salad - enough for three at least.
Try making this if you too find that you have just a few of the newest broad beans (or even just a few bigger ones) - but not enough for supper. Nobody will know that you didn't start out intending to make it that way.
And how did my tummy react? It was just fine. I wouldn't recommend eating baby broad beans unless you are symptom free, but if you are then a handful probably won't hurt you. French beans or young runner beans, (steamed whole and then refreshed with cold water and sliced into pieces) would be a good SCD substitution for broad beans.
Baby Broad Bean Salad (serves 4-6 as a side)
8oz broad beans (podded weight)
8 oz frozen peas or petit pois
1 cucumber peeled and de-seeded
a very large handful of mint
a grating of lemon zest
a heaped dessert spoon of creamy yogurt
a heaped dessert spoon of home made mayonnaise (or good quality bought)
a good squeeze of fresh lemon juice
Bunch of chives, washed and chopped
Steam the broad beans until just done - the skins should just start to split. Plunge into cold water and slip the skins off when cold. Put into the salad bowl.
Steam the peas and refresh in cold water, drain well and add to the bowl
Chop the peeled and de-seeded cucumber into small dice and add to the bowl.
Finely chop the mint and add to the bowl along with all the other ingredients except half the chives.
Taste for mintiness, lemoniness and yogurtiness and add more of anything if needed. I don't add salt to this, but if you like it then add some now.
Put in a pretty bowl and sprinkle over the chives - if you have some chive or nasturtium flowers they would look gorgeous too.
Posted by
Naomi Devlin
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8:38 AM
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